Should you wish to support the site, please use the site affiliate links. About Contact. Back then there wasn't a whole lot we could tell from the documents, other than this: It's called R It uses the BT-DN battery It therefore also uses the EW-SD wires It's semi-wireless, both derailleurs are connected to the battery Part of the FCC documents is also the manual for the rear derailleur itself. What can we learn from the manual? If you want to skip ahead to the most interesting sections of this page, here are some links: No more junction boxes Synchronized Shifting and Wireless functionality The rear derailleur charging port Battery status..
No more junctions boxes! No wires up front Since the new system will be semi-wireless - the derailleurs are connected to the battery via EW-SD and that's all - it makes sense for the rear derailleur to have all these things. Synchroshift and Wireless function So what does the button do? Quite a lot actually. And yeah, Synchronized Shift still exists: Battery status The battery status LED works just like before, indicating the charge level of the BT-DN battery : However, looking at the About wireless functions section of the manual, this particular bit is interesting: Dual control lever battery level information Previously, users on WeightWeenies have suggested that the shift levers would be self-charging and not require any batteries to operate.
Charging the battery via the rear derailleur So yeah, you'll charge your 12 speed Di2 battery via the rear derailleur. This is what the prototype unit looks like from the outside: You can see the charging port at the bottom and the EW-SD Electric Wire port on the top. Those two lines should line up if the derailleur is in the Top Trim position. To get to the Top Trim Position, shift into the big ring. While in the big ring, just barely press the shifter like you are shifting into the small ring, just until it clicks.
That is the Top Trim Position, and the lines should be lined up there. If not, your cable tension is off and it will not shift correctly. If you really do not want to handle this through a bike shop, then make sure you read the manual and follow each step to the absolute letter.
Do not skip anything and verify that all steps are done exactly as it says in the manual. It is very straightforward. But now that you've started messing with the high and low limit screws, you should just start over. Verify that the derailleur is in the proper place according to the manual, adjust the cable tension, and then go for the high and low limits. As an aside, your bike should still shift into the big cog in the back with the clutch shadow option on. If it does not shift when that is on, then it is still a problem.
StuartH Starter 2 posts Share. Doing this job myself yesterday my top trim adjustment has never been working and I found that I actually need to adjust the trim screw to about half way, then reset the cable under the attachment screen when not under tension, so in small ring , this them allowed me to line up the 2 lines in your picture via the adjustment screen.
The cable tension was not correct from factory. StuartH wrote:. CasualGravel wrote:. I would start over completely with fixing the cable tension and then adjusting the high and low limits. If you physically moved the front derailleur by loosening the bolt that attaches it to the frame, you need to start from the beginning. No exceptions. If you did not loosen that bolt and it is still in the same spot it was from the factory, then continue on! Shift down into the small ring on the front or at least get the chain on the small ring.
Now follow the instructions. Everything is labeled clearly. Do not skip anything! It may take a couple tries to get the cable tension right. I had to pull on the cable really hard straight up out of the frame, and then through the cable guide on the derailleur to get enough tension on the cable while I secured it to the front derailleur, but once I got it right, those two lines were almost already lined up and it only took a tiny bit of adjusting with the cable adjustment barrel.
Also, it could result in a poorly charged battery. Both the current and the previous generation Di2 have a button on the Junction box. Depending on what battery you use, the button does different things. The modern Di2 batteries allow you to enter Bluetooth LE connection mode. Note that this Bluetooth connection only works if you have a Wireless Unit on your bike.
Also, if you have a synchro-shift enabled bike, pressing the button twice will let you switch shift modes. Modern Di2 builds will switch on additional lights right after displaying the battery status. These show you the currently selected shift mode :. If you've read the little bit of paper that is the Junction A manual then you may have seen that you can connect your mobile phone or tablet to your bike.
The document shows you how to enter pairing mode and how to make connections. No matter how much your bike cost, it most likely does not come with a D-fly. These units are considered add-ons. All road Di2 builds that use the modern BT-DN battery support different shift modes and synchro-shifting.
This means the system will switch the rear derailleur when you change chainring, or shifts the front derailleur automatically when you shift the cassette to a certain sprocket. I've written a pretty big 'complete guide' on Synchronized Shift before, so read that if you want to know everything there is to know about synchronized shifting. You can also set up synchronized shifting using the mobile app , if you have a wireless unit installed. You can change between the shift modes by double-pressing the button on your junction box.
When you do this the bike cycles through three modes:. More information on these shift modes can be found on the Synchroshift: how does it work page. If you're on Windows you can use E-Tube Project software to connect your bike to your computer and change a variety of settings:. However, if you are a Mac user then you're out of luck. Shimano haven't made the software available for Mac.
Have a look at his video on that and also his Di2 playlist for some more nice videos. Also, if your bike has a D-fly installed you will be able to change settings using your mobile phone Android and iOS or tablet. Sometimes a firmware update is required in order for features to work, or to fix issues. One example is synchronized shifting. Synchro shifting is enabled on older generation Di2 if the firmware is up-to-date and the other requirements see above are met.
You can read how to update your Di2 firmware on this page. Inner hole cover Inserting the inner cable Insert the inner cable into the outer casing from the end with the marking on it. Marking Example: Cutting the outer casing Adjusting the grip width When cutting the outer casing, cut the opposite end to the end with the marking.
It is recommended that you adjust the grip widths of the levers to the most comfortable widths for gear shifting and braking. Do not remove the Pro-Set alignment block at this time. Connecting and securing the inner cable Operate lever B two times or more, and check on the indicator that the lever is at the lowest position. Mounting the shifting lever Chainwheel Note This service instruction explains how to use and maintain the Shimano bicycle parts which have been used on your new bicycle.
M Installation band diameters: S [ Crank arm length Front Drive System M Use a handlebar grip with a maximum outer diameter of 36 mm. Also, be sure to retighten the crank arms and pedals at periodic intervals. Use a torque wrench to securely tighten the pedals.
The right-hand crank arm has a right-hand thread, and the left-hand crank arm has a left-hand thread. In addition, cleaning the chain with neutral detergent and lubricating it can be a effective way of extending the useful life of the chainrings and the chain. If the noise is a Front problem, shift the chain onto the next-larger rear sprocket or the one after. It cannot be used with sprockets the double front chainwheel, as the shifting points do not match.
The chain will be damaged if it is cut at a place where it has been joined with a reinforced connecting pin or an end pin. After riding approximately km 60 miles , re-check the tightening torques. If the tightening torques are too weak, the crank arms or pedals may come off and the bicycle may fall over, and serious injury may occur as a result. If there are any cracks, the crank arm may break and you may fall off the bicycle.
Use a 5 mm Allen key to tighten the wire fixing bolt. Cut off the excess length of inner cable and then install the inner end cap. If shifting is difficult from the intermediate chainring to the smallest chainring. If there is interference between the chain and the front derailleur inner plate at the largest chainring. If there is interference between the chain and the front derailleur outer plate at the largest chainring.
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