Carpentry, plumbing, car repair, book conservation, trepanning I didn't even go into serious details about some of the pre- and post-disaster nightmares.
I spent time training and working at the Humanities Research Center , the Folger Shakespeare Library , and the University of Michigan's Book Conservation labs, as well as working with a private conservator, often being called in to help out One of the reasons I finally got out of the book conservation field was to go BACK to graduate school and get an MILS so I could actually have some impact on getting collections treated, moving further up the decision "food-chain" to see that things got looked at, considered for treatments and taken care of by trained people.
I got interested in a very informal manner I was asked to submit a collection of photographs and I decided to make a book of them, so I first had to learn how to make a book Ah, well As a note, the Alaska manual is intended for Alaskan librarians, a breed of people who often have to make a go of it all by themselves so it is appropriate to advise them how to do this.
Sweet, now I finally know how to repair the slipcase of my complete Calvin and Hobbes collection. Water damage made the cloth come loose on the lip; didn't know what kind of glue was appropriate for book repair.
Guess I'm off to buy some PVA! Oh, and from a professional standpoint, I think this is pretty awesome. Getting information available to the public is always good. There are times when you does need to choose one or the other. Obviously guillotining for scanning destroys the book, but what if paper preservation treatments make parts of the text illegible, or you have to replace the cover?
In my ideal, yay-we-got-a-huge-grant universe, of course, we can do both because the object is in a good enough condition, so we digitize it and then concentrate on keeping the book nice and pretty. I'm not even going to touch the preservation vs. The technical definitions are obvious preservationists keep what is there intact, conservators restore , but in usage - boy, do the lines get blurred. Foam Pants, I understood that about the book being intended for folks who are not always able to call their local book conservator No trained conservator would blithely and knowingly recommend a treatment that would cause the loss of meaning or context.
Conservators may be excellent at restoration, but that is not their chief goal. Many "restorers" simply focus on the "aesthetic" restoration of a object and ignore the mechanical; a conservator has to be concerned with maintaining the mechanical functioning of the object yes, books have "mechanics" and the structural integrity of it as well as its appearance.
Digitization is simply ONE means of providing access to content that might be lost or endangered through continued physical handling. And replacing the cover is not so serious as you make it sound With a cloth bound or leather bound book it's frighteningly easy to do not always!
At least dilute the PVA with half rice starch paste or methyl-cellulose. Or was that just a flip reference, I couldn't tell And yes, for the record, I am qualified to have this discussion. Bibliographers should play a role in most repair decisions. For that reason, the emphasis of this manual will be on simple book repair; that is, those repairs that are most easily completed in-house on non-brittle books, by staff with a good understanding of book repair, and often do not require that a bibliographer make a repair, replacement, or reformat decision on the item.
Circulating collections are victims of a number of stresses. Among them are the quality and nature of the materials used in producing the book, the library environment, and their relatively high use and treatment by patrons. Each factor presents its own set of stresses on a book. Each factor is important in assessing risk to the collection and anticipating the quantity of repairs that will be handled on a yearly average.
It is expected that approximately 2, to 4, books will need repair from the Dartmouth College Libraries General Collections each year. A percentage of these will fall under the definition of a 'simple repair'. Because the book repair program in Preservation Services is in its infancy it will take several years of data gathering before we will be able to accurately predict the number of repairs we can accommodate in-house each year.
Finally, in-house book repair should not be seen as a solution to book damage. We know that a certain percentage of our collection will wear out each year. An element of an effective book repair operation should be an examination of the causes that generate repairs. While some causes, such as the absence of environmental controls, may be impossible to change, increasing staff and users' awareness of how books should be handled will aid in decreasing the number of books needing repairs.
A responsible conservation operation should be run in tandem with a program to increase public and staff awareness of the need for responsible general collections book handling. If only the equipment, supplies, and techniques outlined in this manual are used, reversibility should not be a problem.
In reality, only enclosure of the book as in boxing is truly reversible. Do No Harm: This is a corollary to reversibility. If a repair seems difficult or you think you do not have the skill to complete the repair, set the book aside. Expediency: Almost any non-brittle book can be repaired, given enough time and the proper equipment. Simple book repair implies that the repair will not take hours or days of staff time.
As you become more comfortable with simple book repair, the decision to repair in-house versus sending the book to a commercial bindery will be easier to make. Requirements: q q The order of pages must be preserved regardless of the repair or reformat.
Books must have a protective cover to the pages. Dartmouth Library Staff having gone through the repair workshop should feel confident in handling these repairs. Additional or more extensive conservation work must be handled by staff trained in book conservation. Work Area: The best work area has a large washable table surface, adequate room to work. Floors should be bare. Proximity to the commercial binding prep area, an elevator if needed , and circulation services is extremely useful.
This locked area should be inventoried and one staff member responsible for maintaining an adequate amount of supplies on hand. It contains a full list of the most commonly needed equipment and supplies. Such equipment as book presses, hand tools, and items such as brushes should be of conservation quality and appropriate for book repair. While the best equipment and tools may not be necessary, good quality equipment, while initially more expensive, will be a better long-term investment.
A precision cutter such as a board shear, while being the most expensive piece of equipment, will be worth the investment because of the time saved in better cutting accuracy and ease of cutting.
Supplies should always be 'archival quality'. The terms 'archival quality' and 'acid free' are frequently used in describing conservation supplies.
Briefly, 'archival quality' means lignin free. Lignin is the sticky stuff that makes plants stand up straight. Archival quality products are not only lignin-free but also buffered.
Buffering neutralizes acid AND is a treatment that slows down future deterioration of an item. A good example of this is an acid free enclosure that is used to protect a brittle book. Eventually, the enclosure will also become acidic. Keep your repair tools in good repair, clean and wellsharpened.
Keep the work area clean. After completing repairs put tools and supplies in their proper storage location. Some of the tools you will be working with are extremely sharp. Please exercise caution. If you do cut yourself, try not to bleed on the books--blood is extremely hard to clean from paper.
Wash your hands frequently. Batch similar repairs. Do not eat or drink in the repair area. Treatments should not be visible. Tape and Adhesives The only tape we will use in simple book repair is archival quality repair tape such as Archival Document Repair Tape or Filmoplast P.
Occasionally, translucent mending tape is used for items with a short shelflife and in preparing damaged materials for reformatting such as microfilming. Archival tape is extremely expensive, please be conservative with its use.
PVA: Polyvinyl acetate, a plastic based adhesive that when dry is extremely strong. Used in most binding, spine, and hinge repairs. Frequently needs to be thinned with water before using. Methyl cellulose adhesive: Semi-synthetic adhesive that sets slowly but is reversible with water. Put 1 oz. Sprinkle small amount of methyl cellulose powder on water and beat until smooth.
Add more methyl cellulose until consistency of thick gravy. Let stand 20 minutes. Add more water as needed.
May also be thinned with water before storing. This mixed adhesive is appropriate for repairsneeding a strong bond but using lighter weight paper, such as gluing down end sheets. Repair Manual Home Introduction Guiding Principles Setting up the Area Toolbox Parts of a book Practical Guidelines Identifying Repairable Materials Glossary Bibliography Acknowledgements Your Comments Self-Closing Wrapper Cleaning Torn pages Tip in a Page Hinge Repair Corner Repair q A Simple Book Repair Manual Please Choose a Chapter Book Repair Manual Go Identifying Material Appropriate for In-House Repair A typical hard cover book will need attention at several stages in its library life: q q q q Original trade binding as it comes from the publisher Minor mending to extend the useful life of the publisher's trade binding Rebinding when the trade binding becomes too worn or the sewing breaks Boxing, reformatting or discard when the paper becomes too brittle This manual will primarily focus on minor mending techniques that will extend access to the original book, yet address damage that impedes the use of the book.
Working Definition of a Simple Book Repair: For the purpose of this manual and as a working definition for the Dartmouth College Libraries General Collections, simple book repair is defined as those repairs that meet any of the following criteria: The repair can be done by staff who have completed training in simple book repair and with the equipment and supplies readily available. If it is ONLY a wrapper will be prepared to protect it while circulating, no other repairs will be attempted.
If the over- arching goal of preservation is access, then book repair becomes one option for providing access to a particular book. Each option has a cost, both in staff time and materials. Unfortunately, there are no hard and fast rules for making these decisions. Rather, a number of factors should be considered by staff.
Some common questions you might ask before repairing a book: 1. Bibliographers q q q q Is the damaged book worth retaining? If not, would Special Collections be interested in the book? If book is worth retaining is it still available? If the book is available, is the cost of ordering a new book less than the cost of repairing the original? At the Circulation Desk q q q q Is the book needed immediately by a patron? Are there other copies available?
Have I consulted the appropriate bibliographer? Have I consulted Preservation Services staff? In Preservation Services q q q q q Is the book needed immediately by a patron? Is the book brittle? Is the repair simple?
Do I have time, training, and supplies needed to complete the repair? Would it be easier to send the book to the commerical binder for treatment?
Systems and Procedures Exhange Center. Metuchen, NJ: Scarecrow Press, Greenfield, Jane. Books: Their Care and Repair. New York: H. Wilson Co. Kyle, Heidi, et. Library Preservation Manual. Milevski, Robert J. Book Repair Manual. Morrow, Carolyn Clark. Littleton, Colorado: Libraries Unlimited, Inc. Preservation and Conservation Workshop Manual. Eisenhower Library, Johns Hopkins University, The following people and sources have been particularly helpful in assembling the Simple Book Repair Manual and subsequent web document.
Philip Cronenwett, Dartmouth College Special Collections Librarian, and Bonnie Wallin, Special Collections Assistant, provided the initial training workshops and follow-through critiquing the workshop participants' repairs. They have also made themselves available for consultation.
Participants in the Simple Book Repair Experimental Project have provided feed-back on the clarity of proceedures and excellent ideas for improving the training program. Under the guidance of Patricia Erwin-Ploog, who envisioned its use as a multimedia training tool, the Preservation Committee created the Simple Book Repair Manual and wrote the grant application which secured funding for the project.
Staff of Preservation Services created and designed the web site and all accompanying graphic materials. Laura Ward was responsible for transforming the text to HTML and for graphic design; Brian Markee for all photographs and video, and Barb Sagraves for overall design and content accuracy.
Information Systems staff provided training and support in transforming the manual into HTML and Claire Packard in the Administrative Office re-keyed the document when technology failed. Finally, this web site was developed under a grant from the National Center for Preservation Technology and Training.
Its contents are solely the responsibility of the Preservation Services staff and do not necessarily represent the official position or policies of the National Park Service or the National Center for Preservation Technology and Training.
If after viewing any portion of our pages you would like to ask a question or leave a comment please complete the following survey. Thank you! Your name: Your e-mail or mailing address: Where are you located: How would you rate your book repair experience: high moderate low Please choose the most appropriate answer I found the repair manual helpful very somewhat not really The site was easy to navigate very somewhat not really I found the treatment pages helpful very somewhat not really I found the photos accurate and sufficient very somewhat not really I am interested in seeing more information regarding preservation of books very somewhat not really I found what I wanted yes somewhat not really The site is fine, but here's what I really want to see: If you have a more specific question or comment please submit it in the box below.
Please remember, we try to answer all email, but if you need timely assistance, look for a conservator in your area. See our Frequently Asked Questions page.
Clear this form! Submit this form! Measure the heigth and width of the book and cut two strips of folder stock against the grain. Each strip should be at least three times longer than the book is wide. Begin with the strip measured to the height of the book. Place it flat on a table and lay the book on top of the strip against the edge. Mark the edge of the book on the folder with a pencil. Place the straight edge ruler along the pencil marks and score the line with the bone folder.
Crease the board to make a fold. Place the book upright against the newly formed right angle. The bottom of the wrapper is beginning to take shape. Place the book flat on a table with it snug against the fold. Continue until the book is wrapped by the folder stock. Trim the excess. With the inner wrapper still around the book follow the same procedure around the width of the book making creases along the grain. You should finish with two scored pieces of folder stock.
Place the outer width wrapper on a table and apply PVA to the middle section with a paste brush. Place adhesive under the loose flaps of the endpaper. Consolidate loose material into their original positions and rub with bone folder into place.
Lightly bone down the Japanese tissue to ensure that it is well adhered. A Teflon folder is very useful for this procedure as the Teflon does not drag as much on the wet Japanese tissue. Using the microspatula as a brush apply adhesive between the layers of exposed board.
Push the layers back together and mold the corner back into shape. Wipe excess glue away immediately. Wrap wax paper around the board edge and sandwich the corner in between two pieces of board.
Hold in place with the bull dog clips. Open the pamphlet to its center and remove staples by unbending the legs of each staple using an instrument with a dull blade such as a knife, staple remover or in this case a microspatula.
Slip the blade under each staple along the outside of the spine of the pamphlet, and using a back-and-forth rocking motion, remove the staple. Using a pre-made binder select the size closest to the pamphlet. Optional: Use a corner rounder cutter to trim the corners for a smooth, rounded edge. Open the pamphlet to the center. With the boards opened 45 degrees or less, punch 3 to 5 holes through the fold in the pamphlet, and its pamphlet binder.
The holes at the head and tail should be no more than 1" from top and bottom. The middle hole should be in the center of the pamphlet. It is important to open the pamphlet only part way, so that the awl will pierce it through the fold and not travel off-center.
Thread the newly cut end into a needle, but do not tie a knot. Leave the ends free. With the pamphlet open only part way, begin sewing from the inside out, through the center hole.
Sewing will proceed more precisely if the tendency to open the pamphlet flat is resisted. Leave a 3" tail of thread, which can be pulled shorter later. Sew back into the pamphlet through the top hole and out again at the bottom hole. Thread should always be tightened in the direction in which the pamphlet is being sewn, pulling parallel to the spine of the pamphlet not perpendicular. This minimizes the possibility of tearing the folds of the paper. Re-enter at the center hole careful not to pierce the existing thread, always pulling the thread snugly in the direction of the sewing after passing through a hole.
When the sewing is complete, tighten the thread carefully by drawing outermost stitches toward the center of the binder, and pulling up on the ends of the thread making sure the two ends are on either side of the center thread that passes along the fold of the pamphlet. Tie a square knot. Note: For large pamphlets, 5 or 7 sewing holes can be used rather than 3. In all cases the sewing pattern is the same, with the needle passing in and out through every hole--from the middle to the head and down to the tail, skipping the middle hole on the way from one end to the other.
Sewing is completed at the center hole where the two ends meet and knotted on the inside. Tying a square knot. Cut excess thread. Do this to both the front and back covers. Cut into the cloth at the head and tail board edge closest to the spine to allow cloth to be lifted.
Using the microspatula, gently lift the bookcloth on the cover approximately 1 inch away from the book hinge. To create the new spine piece cut a piece of the. The grain see Parts of a Book must run parallel to the spine. Cut a strip of matching bookcloth 2 inches wider and 1 inch longer than the new spine piece. Glue the spine piece with PVA, center it on the bookcloth, and rub down in place.
This will create a slight arc to the fold. Shape the new spine piece with your bone folder until it curves slightly. Dry fit new spine piece into the joint area before gluing. This helps guide the new spine into place while gluing. Glue the exposed cloth on the sides of the new spine piece and attach to the book.
Center and rub the new spine in place under the lifted cover bookcloth. Using your folder carefully mold the cloth down into the joints and onto the boards underneath the lifted cloth. Note: If the original title on the spine is extremely faded, print out a label with the title on acid-free, alkaline buffered paper. Use the label instead of the original spine. Ideally, wet books should be freeze dried then treated.
This procedure outlines what to do when the book is not totally soaked or freezing is not practical. Some papers may dry as a solid block if not dried in a timely manner. Mold can develop within 48 hours even on damp books, so immediately addressing wet books is critical. Blot as much water as possible using paper towels or blotter. Be careful not to rub either the cover or the wet pages.
Stand the book on its tail and fan open the pages. If possible dry the book in this position in the sunlight or with the use of a fan. Alternatively, dry the book in a warm dry area away from a direct heat source. The more quickly the book dries the less cockling rippling will occur. If after drying the cover is warped, place the book between two press boards and place in a book press for several days.
Unfortunately, a wet book that has been air dried will never look as good as it once did but it will be dry. Place the book upright with cover open, exposing the inside of the hinges. Dip the knitting needle into the adhesive and coat. Insert the needle into the hinge area and roll it into the joint. Be careful to put glue only into the hinge area, or the book will not open properly. Lay the book flat and bone in the hinge on the outside cover of the book. Apply pressure with the bone folder, but be careful not to tear the bookcloth.
Immediately wipe away any glue that oozes through the bookcloth with a damp sponge or paper towels. Place the book on a hard clean surface. Place a knitting needle in each joint. Place a clean board over the book and a brick on top of the board. Note: For the purpose of illustration clear plexiglass is used to show the position of the needle under it.
Home Simple Book Repair Manual. Introduction Acknowledgements. Purpose of In-House Book Repair. Identifying Material. Guiding Principles of Book Repair. In-House Repair Area. General Guidelines. Reference Toolbox. Parts of a Book and Grain Direction. Repairs Four Flap Wrapper. General Cleaning. Torn Pages. Tipping in a Page with video. Hinge Repair with Japanese Tissue.
Corner Consolidation with video. Sewing a Single Signature Pamphlet. Spine Repair. Air Drying Wet Books. Hinge Tightening with video. Philip Cronenwett, Dartmouth College Special Collections Librarian, and Bonnie Wallin, Special Collections Assistant, provided the initial training workshops and follow-through critiquing the workshop participants' repairs.
Participants in the Simple Book Repair Experimental Project have provided feed-back on the clarity of procedures and excellent ideas for improving the training program.
Under the guidance of Patricia Erwin-Ploog, who envisioned its use as a multimedia training tool, the Preservation Committee created the Simple Book Repair Manual and wrote the grant application which secured funding for the project. Staff of Preservation Services created and designed the web site and all accompanying graphic materials. Information Systems staff provided training and support in transforming the manual into HTML and Claire Packard in the Administrative Office re-keyed the document when technology failed.
The repair can be done by staff who have completed training in simple book repair and have equipment and supplies. The book is not brittle.
Is the damaged book worth retaining? Is the book widely available through an interlibrary loan service? If the book is still available for purchase, is the cost of ordering a new book less than the cost of repairing the original? Do I have time, training, and supplies needed to complete the repair?
Is the damage so extensive that it should be sent the book to a commercial binding vendor for treatment? Keep your repair tools in good repair, clean and well-sharpened. Keep the work area clean. Some of the tools you will be working with are extremely sharp. Treatments should be harmonious and aesthetically pleasing if visible. Acid free pamphlet binder. Archival quality repair tape.
Board shear. Bone folders. Book board. Book press. Bull dog clips. Corner rounder cutter. Cutting mat. Japanese tissue. Knitting needles.
Linen thread. Paper towels. Press boards. Scrap paper. Sewing needles. Wax paper.
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